Thursday, November 1, 2012

Scheduling

Scheduling of my weekly/daily activities has become very important.  FYI...I am not complaining about this, merely documenting.  When I came on my pre-assignment visit to learn about Luanda I was advised by one of my colleagues that scheduling with your driver is a major challenge.  I have had some, but minimal challenges with this to date. 

I had plans to go to a birthday party in the city tomorrow night (coincidently for the person who had advised me on scheduling).  Well I was wrong, we are off tomorrow for a holiday and the party is tonight.  I didn't realize this until I was leaving work and looking at the details of the invitation.  Normally, I let my driver know that I will be out late and to plan accordingly. Similar to other latin cultures late means party starts at midnight and convenes at 4-5 in the morning.  So when I arrived home and explained to Adriano that I would be going out to a party he was apprehensive.  So we busted out the computer and began speaking via Google translator.  He told me that he was scheduled to pick up his other client (Adriano is my relief driver and also covers days off for another person's driver) at 8am at the airport.  He does not speak any English, but says "it is complicate". Understood.  So I said I should have told you earlier and I won't go to the party.  The point is that with advanced notice we could have worked it out, but I cannot/did not go to the party.

Part of the issue is that I live out of town with all the married people(who I enjoy very much) and the single folk who are interested in similar adventure live in the city.  If I lived in the city someone else's driver could pick me up.   The good news is I found out they got me an apartment and I will be moving to the city soon. Woo Hoo!!



Fun with Traffic

So today I had a funny experience.  We literally got caught in gridlock today.  As we were driving towards the main road(Samba) on the way home we hit one of the many pinch points along the way and literally we were all stuck.  (Similar to the picture attached on a smaller and tighter scale with 0 outs, pic not from Luanda).  I am always checking things out and saw it coming, but it was too late.  About 10-15  cars and the rest backed up behind them making it worse sat there for 4-5 minutes with our dicks in our hands.  The next thing you know a man jumps out of his truck.  I realize quickly that he has identified the problem/solution to getting us moving.  He walks straight to the car, that with a slight movement can get us going.  Like football navigating traffic in Luanda is a game of inches.

Inside the car is a Chinese man who is extremely surprised by the sudden appearance of the newly anointed traffic cop.  The next 3-5 minutes of instruction from traffic cop to driver were quite intense.  Let's just say lots of yelling in Portuguese and pointing, tapping on the glass, giving the roll down the window sign etc.  The driver is simply not responding and gives the go away sign a couple of times.  Onlookers on the sidewalk are very intrigued.  Finally, the Chinese man who most likely does not speak Portuguese and is clearly scared shitless opens his door, I have no idea why.  By the way I have a front row view and this is all happening 5 feet from me and at this point I am in tears laughing at the entire situation.  While I am a little nervous for the driver, I can't help myself.  Adriano is driving me today and he does not think any of this is funny, but as I have said previously he is a little rough.  Next thing,  Mr. traffic cop literally leans his whole body into this man's car and gives similar hand gestures as he was giving outside the car.  I don't know what was different, maybe he finally understood the international symbol for move forward and right(you know put your hands together and make a fish like movement to the right), but it worked and the traffic cop stepped back and the driver went about 1 foot forward and right giving clearance and we worked ourselves out of the jam.  20 minutes at least we sat there stuck, funny as f.

Sunday, October 21, 2012

Day trip to the Kwanza River


This past weekend some friends and I decided to get out of the city and went to the Kwanza River.  It is about an 1 1/2 drive to the south.  We took a boat up the river, it was beautiful.  There is not too much wildlife in Angola due to 30 years of war.  We were able to see some monkeys, crocs, large lizards, and some birds.  After our tour we ate lunch at the lodge, pretty good food. Overall it was great to get out of the city and I really felt like I was in Africa.

The crew: Tom, Me Jeff, Violet Sophie, and Tammy
Our barge, we got a big kick out of the chairs
Our guide: It was amazing some of the stuff that he spotted along the bank
One of the other boats at the lodge
A Beach near the lodge
Swimmer



Crocodile

The only croc we saw
Lizard near the bank

Monkey jumping around
Big Bird
Me and Tom 
Jeff and I


Riding on the front of the boat


Off the back of the boat



Friendly boater

Relaxing



Riding in the front


Tom and I on the beach

This type of tree is everywhere, pretty cool

Along the road back to Luanda

Roadside Market 

Roadside Market on the way back to Luanda

Friday, October 12, 2012

So let me start by saying that I really want to write a blog that is meaningful and includes pictures of my experience.  I have so much that I would want to write about, but it is hard for me to put it into words and make it something interesting.  The thoughts that ring through my head on a daily basis as I live in Luanda and observe the culture at work and through my daily commutes and occasional weekend adventures have much to say.  Writing about the feelings that I am having during this journey makes me very nervous.  I am going to try this through the following story.  I have lived here and enjoyed the people and what they do for less than two months. Water.

What an odd thought for me, water.  Everyday of my life since I have been here I think about water.  I have a 1 gallon distiller.  I distill a gallon every other day.  Otherwise I drink the bottled water provided at my office. In general I am not drinking the appropriate amount of water a day (64oz is what "they" say).  None the less I am very aware of my water supply.  Wouldn't want to run short.

I received a email message last monday that there was a water shortage in Luanda and that we needed to refrain from outside water usage (washing cars & watering gardens).

FYI..where I am currently located water is a general issue (see the previous pictures, that is salt water Dustin)

I have always taken for granted my ability to drink water, shower, brush my teeth, scrub my genitals, or use my loofa on my my hairy back (I actually don't have a loofa).  I can do all these things and more!!

As I ride home down the Samba I see things  The Samba is the only thoroughfare from the city to the south where the compound is located.  Over the past couple of weeks I have observed people utilizing a water source from right off of the side of the Samba.   This water source can be no more than a burst pipe.  This pipe is bursting out of a sewer.  People congregate daily to get that water.  The first day I saw this place  I watched three young boys spilling the water over themselves like it was the fountain of youth (naked as shit for everyone to see).  So happy.  From that point I have watched people crowding the exposed line with every makeshift water container they could find.  As I write this people are sitting at that line getting water that may or may not be potable. I hope they are boiling it.  If not....

When I received the notification that I would not be aloud to wash my car i chuckled (btw some people in my situation are upset,again see pictures below,).  I am still taking hot showers.   When i got into my car that day it got real.  I realized that the restrictions at my place of residence were laughable, but what about Marco.  Marco is my "regular" driver (5 days/4 days).  Adriano is my "relief" driver.  If I have not said so yet, I have to be driven everywhere I go.  Marco and Adriano do a good job by me. Adriano is gruff we do not speak much.  Marco is a joyful man and he and I are teaching each other Portuguese/English as we can.  He has 3 children. 2 girls  6 & 3 and his son 2 and a wife as well:)

When I got the notification of the water shortage I asked Marcos in our broken Portuguese about the water.  He pulled over...this has never happened.  We synced up our Portuguese and I asked if he had water for his family.  He turned and looked at me and said "no water".  Even though i already felt the answer, I was crushed.  The only thing that I could muster was "vou mi casa" , in Portuguese means "i go my house" and I waved my hand to go.  I wanted to tell him that I will help when we get to my house.  The language barrier continues to be a struggle.  When we arrived I gave him whatever water I had (6 liters).  He had to return from the gate to have me sign a letter to exit with the water.  What??  I understand there has been some theft, but eyes opened. So apparently there has been some theft and I understand.

So the week goes by and I continue my daily drive down the Samba.  Marcos has been off for three days, see the schedule above.  I have had a great week, really started to settle.  This is great. The work is good and all.

I received a notification that the water shortage ended and that gave me relief>

As we drove home today I asked Marco if the water was better?  We bantered in our broken Portuguese with no results.  I asked " cuantos semanas no agua? broke portuguese for how many weeks no water. No answer.  I begin to say uma semana, dois semanas, he speaks up and says in perfect broken english uma mes no water. 1 month!!!!  Again my heart is broken.  We continue in perfect broken portuguese about the water situation.  I learn that he gets his water by buying it from a water truck that regularly cruises his neighborhood (see pictures, he lives right above the picture of the red church building).  That water truck has not been there in 1 month!  We continue about the water and I ask him if they have enough to drink.  He says "ok".  I say "para the"(for you?).  He says no.  He goes talkative as all hell,hand gestures and all.  He explains that the water i gave him is only for his "babies" (i taught him that), no cleansing or cooking and no water for he and his wife.  I try to tell him if they have no water to drink to tell me.  I may have well have been speaking Chinese.  It does not work.  I decide to call my friend to get some help. He gives me the portuguese.  I tell him to tell me if they do not have water to drink to tell me. He is prideful and thinks a moment, but in the end he agrees and I say "vou shop rite" where i load my car with water.  He is going to come tomorrow and go on "lunch break" and take the water to his house.  They say you cannot help everyone and the best way is to help the people who work for you.  I will.  I got a couple of chocolate bars for him and by the look on his face I think this will improve his King status more than the water, of course.

I have been here for 1.5 months and I love the work that I am doing.  

Sunday, September 23, 2012

Kamikazee Salesmen

For my records, I am making a separate section to list all of the things that I see available from the guys who walk down the middle of the street:


  1.  irons,
  2.  lamps, 
  3. clothes, 
  4. shoes, 
  5. chicken kabobs, 
  6. power convertors, 
  7. hangers, 
  8. sodas,
  9.  beer, 
  10. corn cobs,
  11.  sunglasses, 
  12. spatulas, 
  13. coffee cups, 
  14. bowls, 
  15. dog leashes, 
  16. popcorn, 
  17. all fruits and vegetables, cookies, 
  18. crackers, 
  19. dog 
  20. bowels,
  21.  drills, 
  22. saws, 
  23. leatherman, 
  24. luggage, 
  25. hats, 
  26. power strips, 
  27. cds, 
  28. cassette tapes,
  29.  bottles of liquor, 
  30. gloves,
  31.  tanning shade, 
  32. tents,
  33.  coolers, 
  34. pliers, 
  35. hoses,
  36.  pillows, 
  37. bras, 
  38. fishing poles
  39. windshield wipers
  40. make-up
  41. hair extensions
  42. brooms
  43. mops
  44. flag pole
  45. storage racks
  46. rearview mirror
  47. telephone minute cards
  48. lint remover

Food Stuff

Biscuits like these are everywhere and they are awesome.  One of my favorite new things.

Fruit & Veggies are pretty reasonably priced.  These were $2.80.

These cheese slices a little out of hand.  $8.40 for 12 slices.

And the winner.  These pizzas were 1,870 kwanzas or $18.70.  They were delicious though.

Sunday Pictures

Neighborhood on my way to work.



Neighborhood from the car.


Across the water from work.

Some Garbage.



From my office, buildings going up.

Add caption

Sunday leisure.  Usually this bank is filled with people.

On my drive home


Sunday, September 9, 2012

2 Weeks in Luanda

View down the street of the compound

Living room

Backyard.  The lady who lived here before was a green thumb.  I have a garden with eggplant, tomatoes, papayas, basil, onions, and some other herbs


I have been in Luanda for 2 weeks and I have only just begun to experience the city.  The main focus of the first two weeks was work and trying to get into a routine at my house.   I have found that even though I thought I made a great packing list prior to my departure, every day I find there is some little thing that is missing.  No big deal in the states, but here I may not be able to get that basic thing I need.  I have been to the two main “Supermercados” and to say the selection of goods is skimpy is an understatement.  I have felt good about the food so far, but time will tell.

I am living in a compound that is made up of all the expats from my company.  (Pictured above.)  As you can see everyone has the same house, same, yard, and same car.  There is a nice activity area with a pool, gym, dining hall, tennis  & basketball courts, soccer field, and a nice little bar/BBQ area to have parties. I feel quite safe in the compound and in general.  One little annoyance is that the power goes out quite often (it went out three times while I was writing this).  It comes right back on as there is a generator that kicks in, but that may get old.

The one place I spend a lot of time is my daily drive. 

In the evening I spend 1-2 hours driving home.  There are not too many good roads and the main thoroughfare is always packed with cars. I have someone that drives me and that is definitely a good thing.  Besides the fact that I can read or watch a movie to pass the time, the situation on the road is crazy.  It does seem like utter chaos, but it is controlled chaos.   There is an underlying politeness in the way that everyone drives.  Everyone stops and lets everyone else in.  They should ship people to Luanda to teach defensive driving.  They would be experts by the time they left.  Honking is a norm, but not the way it is used in the states.  It says “hey I am here, don’t hit me”, because keeping inside the lanes is pretty much a suggestion. 

I spend most of the time staring out the window at the mass of chaos going on throughout the streets.  There are people everywhere you look.  While the level of poverty is staggering the streets are alive with people trying to get work done.    There are three levels of economy on the street.

1.     Actual storefronts which range from nice professional looking stores to shanty houses that have been turned into make shift businesses.
2.     The sidewalks are littered with blankets, tents, and makeshift grills that are put up and brought down every day.
3.     Lastly, what I have coined the “kamikaze salesmen” are guys who are literally dodging traffic trying to sell whatever it was they got their hands on.   These guys can get very aggressive.

Lots of these people take a lot of pride in what they do and you can see the hard work that they put in on a daily basis for what I imagine is not a lot of money.  You can buy anything from all of these.  A couple of things that I have seen irons, lamps, clothes, shoes, chicken kabobs, power convertors, hangers, sodas, beer, corn cobs, sunglasses, spatulas, coffee cups, bowels, dog leashes, popcorn, all fruits and vegetables, cookies, crackers, dog bowels, drills, saws, leatherman, luggage, hats, power strips, cds, cassette tapes, bottles of liquor, gloves, tanning shade, tents, coolers, pliers, hoses, pillows, bras, fishing poles.  These are just a few things that popped into my head, if you can think of it you can buy it on your drive home without getting out of the car.

All in all it has been a great start to my stay here and I look forward to learning a lot more about Angola.  More to come.

Sunday, August 26, 2012

Off to Luanda

Luggage for my flight to Luanda, Angola
I wanted to make a quick post to see how this works.  The picture is what I will be taking on the plane minus one other carry-on bag.  To give you an idea of what I am taking here is a quick summary:

  • Lots and lots of clothes and shoes (I am working as a mule already and will bring two pair of sandals to one of the guys already there)
  • Lots and lots of Hand Santizer (wipes and mini-bottles)
  • Lots and lots of Bug Spray (see above)
  • 365 days of Malaria medication (I am going to give it a try for now)
  • A full medicine cabinet and some condoms
  • PS3 and a small TV
  • 800+ DVDs
  • Food Dry (tuna fish packets, pasta, sauces, mayo, spices, oatmeal etc)
  • Food Frozen (30 1 lbs tubes of ground chick, beef, turkey, ribeye steaks, bacon, 14 lbs of cheese and some frozen berries)
  • A 2 gallon water distiller
  • I am carrying on a good amount of my works clothes/shoes, my camera stuff, iPad, Laptop, and a basic toiletry kit.
I already took three crates when I went in March that had a couple of electrical transformers, two charcoal grills, toilet paper, paper towels, and a bunch of other bulk toiletries.

I  also sent a sea shipment that had golf clubs, scuba equipment, a safe, more TP, a bean bag game, extra mops/brooms, lots more shoes, they are super expensive there.  I also sent a bunch of old shoes to give to the locals. I shipped a bunch of stuff for the dude who is keeping the crates that I brought last time.


Thats all, my next post will be from Luanda, Angola.